Charming Marais


I enjoy Paris more when I rent an apartment, and not only because they cost less than hotels. Being in a rental allows me to live as  Parisians do: to buy food at local shops and cook at home, to enjoy a warm baguette for breakfast with the smell of fresh coffee coming from the kitchen. Paradise!

I guess I’m not alone, judging from the many rental agencies now specialized in short term leases there. I’ve tried many, good and bad. I once got such a poorly equipped place that I had to buy bed linens and a coffee maker. But after trial and error, I now know the reputable agencies, and have eliminated potential disasters.

Having my own place also allows me to explore the city the way I like – in a relaxed pace, walking, really getting to know each neighborhood. Paris must be visited by foot, and nowhere is this more true than in the Marais. 

This part of the 4th Arrondissement (4th district) is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Paris. Its narrow pedestrian-only streets and small specialty stores are known worldwide for being unique and charming, as are restaurants, boutiques and cafés. The Marais is also the gay district of Paris, where the trends start, with art galleries and shops everywhere. Even food looks better in their windows.

le marais
The Marais is full of charming bars and restaurants


Some of them are so ahead of the rest that they deserve a visit. Like L’Eclaireur, an impressive avant-garde style store-cum-gallery that no self respecting fashion editor could ignore. Places like this are all over the Marais and make sure that Paris will remain the fashion capital of the world for a long time.

I was in a rental in the Marais for the New Year in December of 2007, and had time to retrace my favorite walking route: starting near ‘my’ apartment on Rue des Tournelles – just around the corner from excellent Brasserie Bofinger – on to Rue du Pas de la Mule, where I would pass by a small restaurant always full with locals, Bistro de L’Oulette.

Next I would turn left at the corner and go to Café Hugo, to see magnificent Place des Vosges. Named after French writer Victor Hugo, who lived next door in what is now a museum with his name, Café Hugo is nothing special in terms of food, but it’s always crowded because even in the winter it’s possible to seat outside under heaters, a great spot to do what Parisians do best – watch people passing by.

After Café Hugo I like to visit antique shops and art galleries under the arches of Place des Vosges, where all styles are represented. There is a charming hotel right there, the Pavillion de la Reine, easy to bypass because it’s hidden from the street, but worth a visit.

Moving on to Rue des Francs Bourgeois, leaving Place des Vosges behind, I would pass Rue de Turenne, always stopping for some serious window shopping. This is an area for locals and well heeled tourists, all sporting the latest fashion styles and the newest iPhones. Lots of Americans there in December,  by the way. No one would say our dollar was so low – $1.44 for one Euro – the weakest it had been in a long time.

I always mange to do a little shopping, anyway: for white shirts I go to Anne Fontaine or Rayure; for the latest in fun designer pieces at reasonable prices there is always La Piscine, on 13 rue des Francs-Bourgeois. Last time I bought a nice dress there for myself, but lost it to my daughter, who just had to have it.


The heart of Jewish Marais


I like to walk on Rue des Francs Bourgeois passing Rue Sevigné, then turn left on Rue Pavée towards Rue des Rosiers, the heart of Jewish Marais. This is where the best delis and boulangers (bakeries) in Paris are located. If you like falafel, look no further. If you are a shoe lover, like me, there is Miguel Lobato, on 6 Rue Malher, right beyond Rue des Rosiers. Many elegant Parisian women shop there.

I find Rue des Rosiers one of the most charming in the city, and love to spend time there. Mid-way through it, there is a deli called Chez Marianne, a perfect spot for a mid-afternoon break. From there I walk to Rue du Vieille du Temple, home to many gay bars and trendy boutiques, and after browsing their stores I turn left at Rue du Roi de Sicile. Sometimes I go to a creperie called Page 35, on Rue du Parc Royal – it’s a small place removed from the crowded area, but their crepes are excellent and the service very pleasant.


There is a lot to see in the Marais: the Carnavalet Museum, about the history of Paris, or  the Picasso Museum, covering his earlier period, just to name a few. To see the whole Marais one just needs time, and curiosity – everything else is right there.

As I never have that much time, I usually return to New York before the end of my “to see” list.

Next time, hopefully. The Marais should still be there.

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