The Gauchos of South America

In a world dominated by computers and technology, the Gauchos of South America stand almost alone for their success in keeping their traditions alive, despite frenetic globalization.     

The Gauchos flourished from the mid-18th to the mid 19th centuries in the region known as the Pampas, a vast portion of grasslands that stretches from southern Brazil to Argentina and Uruguay. They could be white, black, mestizos (persons of mixed European and Indian ancestry) or mulattos (of mixed black and white ancestry), and – similar to the cowboys if North America – have remained folk heroes. Giuseppe Garibaldi, the Italian hero who lived for a while among rebel Gaucho groups in South America – before returning to Italy to unify his country in 1861 – said once that the Gauchos were the bravest and most daring horsemen he had seen in all his life. He even took their traditions to Europe, dressing like a Gaucho until he died in Italy, in 1882.

Pampas_Range
Area known as the Pampas, in lighter color

The Gauchos major occupation was hunting large herds of escaped horses and cattle that roamed free in the Pampas, a region that for centuries was a no-man’s land and the stage of bloody warfare between Portugal and Spain, South America’s rival colonial powers. Either independent or working for the cattle ranches of the region, the Gauchos shared a strong sense of identity and a love of freedom, and in their code of conduct courage and masculinity were considered major values. Their world was not limited by the three countries’ borders, but by geography: whether from southern Brazil, Uruguay or Argentina, they all spoke a mixture of Portuguese and Spanish (the word Gaucho is now also applied to anyone born in the Brazilian southernmost state Rio Grande do Sul), dressed in the same clothes and used the same tools in their trade.

The Gaucho weapons were the facão (big knife) and the boleaderas, a device made of leather cords and three iron balls used to immobilize animals on the run. They dressed in costumes that included the chiripá girding the waist, a woolen poncho, and long and large bombachas (accordion-pleated trousers) gathered at the ankles and covering the top of high leather boots.

Gauchos were never on the same place for long, but those working in the estâncias (cattle ranches) lived in small mud huts roofed with grass mats. Being nomads, their marriages were seldom official, and they called  their women chinas. Not very religious, their beliefs consisted mainly of local superstitions mixed with Catholicism, and for pastime they had horse races, played the sanfona (a type of accordion), and sang trovas, spontaneous verses telling of their prowess in hunting, fighting – and with women.

2. Churrasco
The Churrasco

Gauchos subsisted largely on meat, and perhaps their most popular contribution to modern culture – one that has spread worldwide, as rodizio restaurants are now in every country – is the churrasco. A boneless piece of meat (or sausage, pork or chicken) prominent in their cuisine, it is cooked in a special kind of grill called churrasqueira, with the meat stuck in metal or wood skewers resting on a support, or stuck to the ground to roast over burning charcoal. As in most things in Gaucho culture, the churrasco is above all a celebration of their lifestyle, and in many estâncias it is still cooked in the old-fashioned way: the animal is killed in the early hours of the day, the meat cooked slowly in the churrasqueira, and later served to family and friends.

6 churrasco poa
Churrasco made the old-fashioned way in the cattle ranches of the Pampas

A major Gaucho tradition still alive is the chimarrão, or mate, a type of tea made with crushed leaves of an herb and called erva. First used by the Guarani indians of the region, who believed the hot water infusion could cleanse and heal the spirit, the chimarrão is more a social ritual than anything else. It is prepared in a cuia (gourd) filled three quarters with the erva; hot water is then poured on the mixture, which is left to brew for 10 or 15 minutes, before being served.

But what makes the chimarrão experience unique is the way it is served: friends and family gather in a circle as the host prepares the infusion and drinks it first, using a type of filtered metal straw called bomba. The cuia is then refilled and passed to each guest, everyone sharing the same bomba, in a bond of trust and friendship. While sharing the chimarrão, people talk to each other and tell stories, and many Gaucho traditions were passed on this way. The chimarrão cannot be bought anywhere – it remains to this day a daily celebration shared by families and close friends in Gaucholand. To offer a chimarrão to a newcomer is considered a gesture of acceptance, and the highest welcome a stranger can receive.   

3. Chimarrao
Modern-day gauchos having a chimarrao outdoors

 

Martin Fierro and the Gauchos of today

Considered the pinnacle of the Gaucho genre in literature, the epic poem Martin Fierro, by the Argentine writer José Hernandez, is an historical account of the role the Gauchos played in the country’s independence from Spain, in 1818. Translated into over 70 languages, this instant public success was first published in 1872, and is now considered a classic: it tells the adventures of an impoverished gaucho fighting for his life and honor. Martin Fierro is considered the greatest book ever published in Argentina, and is the source of many movies and literary studies.  

7 gauchos poa
Every year on September 20th the Gauchos commemorate the end of the Farrapos Revolution

But until few decades ago, all these Gaucho stories and traditions were slowly disappearing, confined to the estâncias of the region and practically gone from its urban centers. It all began to change  few decades ago, when a Gaucho revival started to take hold, as part of a concentrated effort of traditionalists in southern Brazil, Uruguay and Argentina. The movement has been so successful, that the chimarrão and the churrasco are again everywhere in the land, and pride in the Gaucho lifestyle is at an all time high.

Perhaps the biggest proof of this revival is an annual parade in Rio Grande do Sul, which shares dry borders with Uruguay and Argentina. Every year, on September 20th, the state commemorates the end of the bloody Farrapos revolution, fought from 1835 to 1845 for independence from the Portuguese monarchic power of central Brazil. Their battle was lost, and Rio Grande do Sul is still part of Brazil, but an honorary peace was celebrated, and the rebels’ requests were all granted.

4. Semana Farroupilha
A statue of a Gaucho dressed in full attire, Porto Alegre, Brazil

A growing number of Gauchos now marks that historic date dressed in typical attire, proudly parading their thoroughbred horses and carrying colorful Farrapos flags on the streets. Preparations for the big day start weeks before, with temporary tents put up around towns, where the chimarrão and the churrasco are shared with the public. Gaucho music, poetry and dances are part of the celebration, and the event is getting bigger every year. 

Events like that are now common in Uruguay and Argentina as well, each country showing its particular Gaucho character. But no matter where they gather to show pride in their culture, the Gauchos main accomplishment seems to be surviving globalization. And that is not a small thing, in a world where regional identities are fast disappearing.

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For a custom-made itinerary in the authentic Gaucho country go to our Custom-made trips page.    

 

 

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